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That it is the only remaining birthplace of
a South
Carolina signer of the Declaration
of Independence categorizes it as extraordinary. That it has
survived the politics, the elements, and the apathy that have
befallen so many other historic treasures is atypical enough.
Still a private residence--as it was when Thomas Lynch, Sr.
began building it around 1735--Hopsewee has always been in
private hands.
Indeed, only a handful of
owners have called it home. Today’s owners, Rae Jean and
Franklin Beattie, both historians and preservationists,
attribute the structure’s survival to its construction of
black cypress, one of the forest’s most resistant woods. The
footprint of the two-story, center-hall home has never been
altered. Except for a few alterations to the kitchen, they
were careful to leave the house just as they found it seven
years ago.
Its place in history and
its accessibility to the history-loving public makes Hopsewee
a house museum. Tours are offered from March through November.
As in a museum, the relics, art, and legends throughout seem
to italicize details of the home’s story. But this is more
home than museum for the couple who love and care for it
today. It’s here they gather their blended family around an
antique dining table. It’s here they entertain friends on the
screened porch that looks out over the tannin-stained river
where cotton once floated to market. Its lineage makes
Hopsewee worthy of its legends. Perhaps it is really a home
museum because its current owners make it home.
Pride in their role as
preservers of this national treasure direct the Beatties to
have guests enter the true front door of Hopsewee, not the
pedestrian entrance that faces the circuitous driveway snaking
through a grove of live oaks and camellias. Coming to the
front door assures all who enter the same breath-taking view
the owners relish every day. Franklin Beattie loves to point
out the high water mark of today as he shares the history he
has gleaned about the builder’s decision to construct above
the river’s reach. The stone from which patriots mounted their
horses is still there. Several years ago when three riders
re-interpreting Francis Asbury’s 18th century
journey of through the area were invited to stop at Hopsewee,
they mounted their horses from that same stone.
Just inside the front door
are glass top cabinets in which
Franklin
deposits
artifacts he picks up from the sprawling property on his daily
walks. Shards of pottery, lead balls, nails that tell him
tales about the home’s construction, and other finds have
stories of their own. The inquisitiveness and lust for
learning that both Beatties manifest can be found on their
walls, in their bookcases, and in the wealth of knowledge they
share so generously with any who ask.
Carved into the moldings at
ceiling level are the shapes of tiny lit candles, perhaps a
nod to illumination. Knowledge was a virtue evidenced by the
builder of Hopsewee in his domestic dealings and in his
representation of his state. The elder Lynch and his son,
Thomas Lynch Jr., were two of
South
Carolina ’s five delegates to the
Second Continental Congress.
The formal, but
comfortable, living room in the Beattie’s home reflects
tradition as far back as their combined family treasures
reach. Each brought to the marriage family and collected
antiques that together create a backdrop conjuring up life as
it may have been when Carolina
was still
a colony. Among favorite pieces the couple has arranged in a
pleasing interior pattern, a number once belonged to
Franklin
’s
great-grandmother. Rae Jean has answered guests’ questions
about the pieces, the colors chosen, and the fabrics so often
that she finally set out labels near items that most often generated
curiosity.
Whether the birds around Hopsewee
property home inspired all the Audubon prints framed and
adorning the walls, or whether Audubon is simply the couple’s
favorite artist and naturalist is a moot point. The artwork
conveys a reverence for nature and tradition, and the creative
couple continue moving pieces about until they hit upon the
location that catches the light of time just right.
The study doubles as a
music room. It’s there family members gather around the piano
for singing, sometimes disturbing the spirit that inhabits the
historic home. The hammered dulcimer Rae Jean is mastering
also has a place in this room, although it is portable enough
to move when she is asked to play for special occasions or
church services. Documents and historic prints, each a history
lesson behind glass, adorn the walls of this retreat.
The kitchen, brought
indoors in modern times, has been completely remodeled, but
the look is reminiscent of an earlier period. One culture
clash is the computer on which Rae Jean conducts much of the
plantation’s business. Before she and Franklin took up
residence at Hopsewee, her career was in technology. She
believes the view from her kitchen window is the best vista in
the state--through the original glass, she can see the past,
and the future.
Outside, a covered meeting
area shields student groups and volunteer archaeologists from
the elements. Hopsewee is a teaching plantation, inside and
out. In recent years digs have unearthed important discoveries
about plantation life, augmenting what the two original slave
houses and smoke house reveal. A stroll around the property is
a walk through Lowcountry history, botanically speaking.
Hopsewee was an indigo plantation in its first iteration as
remaining indigo plants, among many notable species, confirm.
The brick-floored basement
is sometimes a classroom, too, when those who want to embrace
the tradition of sweet-grass basket-making gather beneath the
low ceiling to learn the art of coiling and sewing. The
Beatties afford guests access from the basement to the attic.
On the way up the decorative staircase, more documents trace
the lineage of the patriots that have trod the risers in
earlier times.
The four bedrooms upstairs,
each opening onto the central hall, restore a bit of privacy
to the owners’ lives. Hand-made quilts, a slave-made chair,
and other remnants of simpler times would make the Lynches
feel as much at home today as they did in the 18th
century.
Hopsewee Plantation,
located 12 miles south of Georgetown
on U.S.
17, became South
Carolina ’s first National Historic
Landmark in 1972.
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